Elegant balconies under taller palms lift locals from the car strewn streets. Windows are also doors onto dramas below: running bulls, running robbers, pickpockets
eluding the heavily equipped Guardia Civil, neighbours’ feuds shouting into the night, the dog that bit the priest visiting that widow with the voice of a rusty rasp in the street.
But they are earplugs to earnest commerce: double-parked personal representatives who must take an order before unblocking traffic to feed a family without even a balcony.
Balconies are blinds to public life, enclosures of the private, mundane, sometimes erotic, sometimes contemplative ease of family life behind the balcony.
Fuchsias fulminated in the hedgerows, Heli Hansen yellow ebbed in the tide, and the bay wrinkled its reflection of fast-scudded ever-changing sky.
The Bens were receding behind us as we found ourselves in a shoal of craft all pointing towards the island like multi-coloured mackerel: black ribs,
green curraghs, launches and fishing boats, even a car ferry full of standing souls seeking something in the strong sun from the gravitas of island granite
in the form of MacDara’s offertory, its steep roof, simple room, small windows the very challenge of austerity above the pincers of a white beach
where English voices crossed a cloth spread with a simple beach picnic of red lobsters, salad and champagne. Beyond the strimmed leaves of flags
white robed priests spoke a mass in Irish and red-faced men with huge hands like claws stood in line to take the wafer and the wine.